Beautiful Scotland

 

The Scottish coast is stuuning

 It is travel day. We have already begun the fiasco. It's 945 am. We have to leave the airbnb at 10. We get a notification that (WAIT FOR IT!!) the train is cancelled!! So it's only canceled to out train transfer point. So you are thinking get a ticket to the transfer point and continue on your merry way. 

I looked at at later trains  - sold out. I thought I better getter get another train quick with the way this is going. I'm sure it's chaos at the ticket counter. So I booked it thinking I'll get a refund for the first one.

So the new one is at 235 pm. We have a 3 hour wait. We are perched on the 2nd floor of Picadilly looking at people scurrying around.

SCHREEEEECCCHHHHH!!! Stop the blog! I take back whatever I have said about the rail system. This 4.5 hour train was some of the most beautiful scenery I have ever seen. Starting with rolling hills of wheat fields and pastureland with cows, sheep and horses to the beautiful Scottish coastline, it was otherworldly. 

We travelled along the coast for probably an hour and a half of the trip. Gorgeous cliffs and beaches. Pretty coastal towns.

I was thinking what it must be like to live on a big hill with the ocean view on one side and rolling green hills dotted with trees on the other side. A paradise.

Ode to the northern quarter, Manchester

 Goodbye Mani. Goodbye to very slow trams that I grew to like because it showed me the city. 

Goodby northern quarter. You are one of those run down neighborhoods the cool kids find. They start going to the pubs and making them hip. They open vintage clothing shops. Coffee places start popping up. Little funky businesses rent shops that are dirt cheap. For now. 

Pretty soon the artists and cool kids start renting the cheap apartments even though the neighborhood is still iffy. Because it looks rundown, it still keeps a lot of people away. For now.

Street art starts appearing, a lot it is really good. Music spots start opening. More people are showing on weekends. It becomes THE place to be. 

Other people start finding out about this quirky, funky neighborhood. Weekends start to be really busy. More and more “normal” shops appear. It is written up in the paper as the next trendy place.

Then it happens…tourists appear with their iPhones taking selfies in front of the David Bowie mural.

 The northern quarter is now TRENDY. Uh oh.

Beatles rule Liverpool and make people a few bucks too

 So today we went to Liverpool, home of “Ladies and gentlemen the Beatles!” (Their first appearance on Ed Sullivan show in 1964). I was nine when they played on Ed Sullivan.

This is Beatles town. There are Beatles stores, Beatles restaurants. There are Beatles bus tours called the “Magical Mystery tour” in which you can visit where they played before they were famous, John, Paul and Ringos childhood homes, where they went to school, etc.  I hear they stop where Ringo used the toilet once. Har.

There are Beatles museums. I imagine there are old guitar,

lyric sheets, clothing, etc. One place has an ashtray with a cigarette that was actually smoked by John Lennon on May 6, 1965.

Here’s an interesting fact; “ After a 2008 topiary tribute to the Beatles was unveiled in Liverpool, Ringo’s leafy head was cut off after he said he missed nothing about his hometown”.

You might think I don’t like Liverpool. I loved it! Especially the waterfront. Oh and I love the Beatles Who doesn’t?

Manchester Temple bar is in the toilet

 Manchester is the greatest place! It is down to earth, funky weird. It would take a long time to explore it all. 

Here’s a unique part of the city. It’s called the Temple bar. It is an underground bar (literally). It looks like you are going down into the subway but it’s a bar. The thing is this was a Victorian toilet for 100 years! 

It’s very popular, especially with musicians. It’s very small and intimate “encouraging you to make friends and talk to people near you”. Two dozen people can fit in here and that’s pushing it. It supposed to have the best jukebox in the city, many songs from popular local bands.  According to local reviews “it’s not crap”. Bada bing.

There is a unisex toilet. They say you don’t have bring your phone in there because the walls are covered in graffiti to keep you entertained. Only in Manchester.

Las Vegas in Manchester England

 I found a place that could be found in Las Vegas. It is called the Trafford palazzo. It is a huge shopping center made up to look like a Roman palazzo. 

I’ve seen pictures of the Venetian in Las Vegas which looks a lot fancier but it’s kind of a similar effect without the canal. I’ve never actually been to Las Vegas.

Other than the theme of a palazzo it’s a regular mega mall. There is part of it in the food that is made to look like bourbon street in New Orleans. The mall has everything you would ever want.

Other than that we went back to the center to people watch at a table outside Starbucks. We did the same thing the previous Saturday and it was fun. So many different kinds of people going by. There are a couple of popular hipster bars down the block so it's busy. 

Groups of people come young women out looking for young men and vice versa. Couples all dressed up. A few rich people. A Lamborghini went by. It fun to see how people dress. Boring ordinary a running dress to punk to designer, you see everything. There was a hen (bachelorette) party of about 40 across the street.

Observing people is probably one of the most interesting part of this trip.

Getting your prescriptions filled for a slow traveller

Naturally I love Mani. I love all these places. 

The women's European cup for soccer started here last night. Over 70,000 people at the first game. That’s amazing for womens sport. Never happen in the U.S. By the way England won against Austria. 

So I am on 3 medications that I take every day. I knew that this was going to be a challenge.  So starting looking into how to get more. Asked a pharmacist who told me I have to see a doctor and have them prescribe. He gave me a number.

No go. Said he never should have given me the number. Went to another pharmacist. Gave me a number to a private doctor that you can see the same day.

Called them and made phone appointment which was cheaper than in person. So next day wait at at appointed time. Nothing. Called them an hour later and the woman had put me down as in person. Couple hours later nurse practitioner called me. Able to give me one month supply. Messaged a local pharmacy. Cost: $60. 

Went there few hours later. Not ready and oh by the way we can’t fill one of them. We ran out. Called back to NP office. They gave me paper prescription to try at another pharmacy. Cost for two meds for a month supply:$30.

I don’t know if I’ll be able to get it or not. It is usually combined with another med. We’ll see.

How can she travel for a year?

 You are probably wondering how did she manage to do this? The whole travel the world for a year thing? Doesn’t she have obligations?

Before this I lived in an apartment and paid rent, electric gas. I had a cell phone bill. I had credit card payments. I was buying groceries every week. 

I had no car. That saved me a lot of money. No payment, gas, insurance. I used an hourly car rental that was a block from my house. 

I ate out, went to coffee shops, events.  Bought stuff on Amazon. In other words I had a normal life.

I have a decent retirement income after 30 years as a nurse plus social security. It’s average. I had a small business that earned me about 9,000 last year.

The biggest reason I could do this is that I didn’t have any big obligations. I don’t own a house. Didn’t have payments or have to worry about it while I was  away. No car to pay for or store. I am retired. No work obligation. My son is not married, no grandchildren yet.

The biggest thing is I have always been is a risk taker. Not afraid to do something different. Always confident I could take care of myself. I have a big sense of adventure. 

I thought what is the worse thing that could happen? I would hate it and have to come back. I would have to come back for a family emergency. If I had to come back, the world would not end. 

I have made sure I have money in the bank for any emergencies or extraordinary circumstances. I also have credit cards. I will only use them if I need to. I have health insurance in case of emergency.

I don’t know what the future holds. Something could happen that brings this to an end prematurely. In the meantime I’m going to enjoy every minute of it.

It’s cold in Manchester for this slow traveller

 I could live in Manchester. It is like a very big city but in a smaller package. It has everything London has but not so much of it. It’s so much less hectic and frantic. 

It has a very extensive public transport system with the trams, albeit very slow.  Easy to reach rest of UK from here with 3-4 rail stations in the central part. Lots of culture, music, arts. Lots of diversity. History. 

It would be cool to live in one of their many high rise buildings. The only drawback I can see is weather. (This coming from someone who lives where there is 6 months of snow and cold). 

I think Manchester has maybe two months of summer where it gets to maybe 68.  Rest of months range 44-62 degrees. They get more rain than most UK cities.  Cold and damp winters? No.  I guess you get used to it. What is worse 10 inches of snow and -15 or cold and damp winters. It’s a toss up. They typically get 2.8 inches of snow in winter.  (See photo) The UK doesn’t seem to have clear days. It’s a lots of clouds, then partly cloudy periods.

I’m looking forward to exploring more of this fascination’ city!

View from Manchester Deansgate tower

 Lots of people out today. Tram was full with people standing. 

Went down to central Manchester. The tram’s slowness and many stops let’s you see different areas. Manchester is a city of rivers. They meander through the city. A lot of neighborhoods are named so and so key. 

In the 2000’s the city decided to develop an isolated area with nothing on it. They decided it was a place that skyscrapers could be built. It was named Deansgate Square.

Four very tall residential buildings were put up. They range from 460 to 659 ft tall. The tallest building has 62 floors. That is the tallest building in Manchester. Imagine living on the 62nd floor!

Here is a picture of the towers and a view of Manchester from the tallest one. Obviously view is not my picture.

Manchester is hip to this slow traveller

 It's a new day. Here we are in Manchester.  Or “Mani” as the locals call it. The city itself has a population of 535,000 but in greater Manchester (suburbs and all) has 2.7 million. It's the 2nd biggest metro area in England. We're in northwest England now. Accents are thicker.

Manchester has two rivers that run through it so lots of scenic spots along it with shops and places to live. After Cardiff this feels really big.  Very sophisticated.

We sat outside a Starbucks today and people watched.  A wide variety of people went by.  Everything from bachelorette (or hen parties as they are called here) parties to a marriage party led by the bride to hip young women in the latest fashion. Add some good looking young men and you got the picture.(I’m not dead yet)

Manchester is a mix of old and new. Very old intricately designed building to 40-50 story modern skyscrapers. It’s sort of like a less crowded, less harried London. I love it so far. 

I’m even enjoying the very slow trams that are actually kind of relaxing and let you see the scenery. 

So a good start to a new and exciting place!

Train travel in UK is not fun

 Man I'm tired. These travel days take a lot out of you. 

Left at 8:30 am so we could get something to eat before the train. Long ways from the air bnb to station. At least it seemed long with a suitcase and a backpack. 

We had no idea how Cardiffs train station worked. Yes we had come in there but we just left right away. In order to get out you had to scan your train ticket. So we knew we had to scan the ticket going in. Turns out the station is sort of like a subway only it's outside. It's has platforms, that's it. 

We went to the right platform and there were lots of people . Uh oh another mad dash like in London? Turns out they were going on different trains. We got there too early. So it's 5 minutes before our train is due and announcement is made : change of platform! Of course it was up another staircase. 

Then train is delayed 30 minutes. OK it’s all good, we`re on the train. Everything is copacetic. The Wales countryside is absolutely beautiful. Lots of sheep. Cows.

About four stops from Manchester, they announce everybody has to get off at the next stop because this train ain't going any farther. We have to get on a new train! So on to the new train, different platform.

Finally at Manchester. Time to find train to air bnb to Eccles. Well we decided to take the "metrolink". Turns out it's a light rail situation. Great. Get on. Proceed to move through downtown at literally 5 mph. It seems to stop every block. As time goes on it seems to be going 2 mph. This was the pace to Eccles. It was bizarre and funny.  It really wasn't funny. We were tired. So five hours later (ha more like 40 minutes) We finally get to Eccles. 

We thought we would be efficient so we bought a week card for the light rail at the station. Cost: $30. Found out the actual train is 10 minutes to Eccles. However weekly cost: $60 for 1 week per person. Can somebody tell me why the UK transportation system is so darn expensive?!! 

Goodby beautiful Cardiff from this slow traveller

 So goodbye to Cardiff. A cool city with so much more potential. 

I think Cardiff will become even better than it is now. There is a separation between the beautiful bay and the center.  If they can somehow make it easier to get down there this city will explode. 

You can take a bus to the bay but we chose to walk. It’s about 40 minutes and you walk through a not so nice area.  The bus takes 30 minutes. It’s the regular city bus and not a tourist shuttle or anything.

The bay front has some development but has so much more potential. I can see hotels and condos in its future. Lots more restaurants. More use of the water with boating. There is only one boat that goes around the bay. There is a brand new arts building for theatre, music, dance that is really cool. The Welsh parliament is down there.

In the 1980s the bay entrance was restructured so there would be more of a consistent level of water and the entrance wasn’t all sand during low tide. 

If you walk around central Cardiff and take it at face value you won’t be impressed. The fun is inside the buildings and arcades. They hides lots of independents shops, markets and restaurants. 

Cardiff isn’t fancy but the River Taff and the gorgeous park along it on the castle grounds make it beautiful along the gorgeous bay.

Cardiff Wales medieval history slow travel

 You really have to dig for interesting nuggets. Like today seeing the remnant of the town wall in Cardiff that was built for defense purposes in 1100. 

I like to look up what are the oldest places. This came up. So I went to find it. I looked and looked It was across from Cardiff castle by Pizza Hut. I just happened to look in the alley behind Pizza Hut and there it was! Looking at it you would never guess it’s history. 

It was part of a 1.2 mile defensive built around the city. It was 8 ft high and 10 foot thick. There was nothing identifying it as this significant piece of history. Just knowing that was built 1100 years ago and seeing it is so cool. 

There are also remnants of a 3rd century Roman wall in the Cardiff castle walls. It is outlined in red on the photo. Unbelievable.

Cardiff fascination’ history to this slow traveller

I never planned to go to Wales thinking Wales? Boring. It’s anything but…

Loving history like I do, it’s an interesting place. To me, anyway. This was one of the big coal capitols of the world. At its height it moved 11 million tons through Cardiff harbor a year. I cant even imagine what that must have looked like with train car after train car being loaded onto ships. Ships coming in from all over. The town was built on it. 

It made a lot of people very rich. During the Victorian era. I’m sure Cardiff was a mix of the wealthy and the working class who worked the docks. People from around the world who crewed the shipped coming into the harbor settled here, representing many countries including Somalia, Yemen and Greece. The area around the docks became a multiracial community. 

After World War 2 coal production almost completely ceased leaving Cardiff in economic decline. Refugees came from war torn countries in the 1970-80s.

The bay was redeveloped in the 1990s into a place for entertainment and water activities. The Welsh parliament is there. There is a large arts center there.

Nowadays Cardiff relies on finance, tech, retail and tourism. Cardiff gets 21 millions tourists a year! 

Cardiff Bay in 1890s and today.

Beautiful Cardiff slow travel

 Beautiful day in Cardiff today. You can tell this is a port city because lots of seagulls flying around and calling loudly.  

I absolutely love Cardiff! It feels like you can breathe here and it’s not so dirty. There are so may less people and it feels more relaxed. Because of all this I am more relaxed. It’s nice.

I loved London, but like New York it is so fast paced and crowded. It’s like stepping into a whirlwind and trying to keep up with it. I’ve always  lived in the city but no where near that size. It’s fun to visit but wouldn’t want to live there. 

In order to really discover a city, I’m finding you have to look into its history. The basis of Cardiff and all of Wales for a very long time was coal production. It was once one of the biggest coal suppliers in the world. Brought lots of wealth here. Especially to Cardiff which had the port where the ships came in. 

In order to give the rich people something to do with their money back in the 1950s arcades we’re build in central cardiff. They are referred to as Victorian arcades. They are little shopping streets or alleys inside buildings. There are shops and restaurants. Really cool. The oldest is the royal arcade. 

I’ve only visited one but intend on going to all 8 of them.

An oasis in London

 I have talked about nooks and crannies and mews and alleyways. Hidden treasures. Yesterday I set out to find one: Neal’s Yard. It is a very small alley with shops and restaurants. It’s cute but I didn’t think it was anything special.

So M was getting his hair cut and I would meet him in a couple hours. So after Neal’s Yard, I  decided to just wonder around the area and I wandered into a hidden place that was really cool.

It was called Phoenix park. It is a small community garden with trees and flowers and benches. There are winding path. It is a little oasis in a busy city. 

The park was started by community members who still take care of it. There is a small building where they hold events. 

I sat there for a while just enjoying the greenery and listened to a church bell toll. There were pretty flowers and the usual pigeons walking around. London has thousands of pigeons and they are everywhere.

If was so relaxing. 

Met up with M and we decided to go to Borough market to have a really good street taco there. They were closing! We didnt get one one.

I went here on my own the first time and loved the taco. We went back the day after the tube strike last week and the whole market was closed. So this was a second try!  

I guess I wasn’t meant to have another one…too bad. Best food I’ve had here. Goodbye Taco Parde.

Highlights from slow travel in London

This has been quite the month. As of tomorrow we left the U.S. 32 days ago. 

At the beginning I had my doubts about the whole deal.  Sleep deprivation had me in quite a state. So got past that and here we are. 

I’m looking back on the month and feel like we have covered a whole lot of London. Most of central and all it’s tourist sites. Went to many different neighborhoods.

I’m not really someone who is into museums so didn’t visit any. I’m not saying won’t go to the Lourve, but nothing hear jumped out at me. 

I like to walk around and observe mostly. Sit in different areas. Look up funky areas or hidden places and go there. It’s more fun to me.

I did see the requisite tourist attractions: Buckingham Palace, Big Ben, Tower bridge, the Eye, etc. that was cool but I enjoyed neighborhoods more where you can see how people live.

Thinking about what were  highlights, I can think of the top two. The first is coming out of the subway and seeing Westminster Palace was jaw dropping. It is such a magnificent place. Big Ben makes it even more beautiful. Then right next it is Westminster Abbey, another architectural marvel. Just unbelievable.

The other big highlight is at the opposite end of the spectrum. The neighborhood of Camden Town. It is a combination of hippy and punk with its funky storefronts and, shall we say, interesting people. I absolutely loved it.

I already have so many memories.