Could you eat 14 lbs of potatoes a day?

 Between 1841 and 1901 Ireland lost six million people. The population was cut in half. People had been emigrating prior to the famine, but that crisis opened the flood gates. 

My great grandpa John was born in Waterford Ireland to Phillip and Catherine  on the eve of the famine in 1844. He emigrated when he was 25 years old. So he left in 1869. He was part of the great immigration from Ireland to the U.S.

In 1845 half of the potato crop was destroyed by blight, a type of fungus. People managed to survive that year. When it came back the following year people started to starve to death.

For most of the Irish people potatoes were the daily diet. They were easy to grow and plentiful in the climate. The way Ireland was set up with the English owning most of the land and renting it to the Irish, it was all they could afford. So when the crop failed they were in serious trouble.

With little help from the English government they began to die of starvation and disease. They couldn’t pay rent so they were evicted by the thousands. 

0ne million people died during the famine. One million people left Ireland during the famine. After the famine and potato blight ended, people kept leaving leaving by the hundreds of thousands til half the population was gone, among them my great granddad John. He settled in Minnesota, married and had 10 children, among them my grandpa Joe. 

Grandpa Joe had eleven children, among them my father Bill. Can you tell they were Irish Catholics? 

The average Irish man ate 14 pounds of potatoes a day prior to the famine. Seems like a lot of potatoes doesnt it? It isn’t if you divide into 3 meals a day.  That’s 4.6 pounds of potatoes a meal or maybe 5-6 potatoes a meal.

Scotland weather and train snafus

 So we did a train snafu yesterday. Wasn’t the railways fault. So….when you go from Edinburgh to Glasgow or vice versa, there are different routes. Linlithgow is between them two. Not every train out of either goes to Linlithgow. So yesterday we got on the wrong train for the first time. We ended up having to go to the station (Haymarket) before Edinburgh. It’s the only place we could transfer to back to Linlithgow.

The thing is the train we originally got on was the long route stopping at lots of small towns. Took 50 minutes to get to Haymarket to transfer. Then it took another 20 minutes to get to Linlithgow. So 70 minutes for what would have been a 30 minute ride. Oh well. Live and learn.

I miss the sun. I think my brain and body know this time of year is when there should be sun. In the UK, particularly Scotland, it’s mostly cloudy. That gets tiring. In Scotland it is mostly in the 60’s.  

The weather goes from partly cloudy to cloudy to rain and back to partly cloudy all in one day. You never really know what tomorrows weather will be because it will most likely change. We are on an island in the ocean after all.

I miss warm weather, sunshine. It’s like fall here. I love everything about Scotland and I will come back here but I do miss the sun.

Seeing America from far away

 I was on my own today. M and I decided to go our separate ways for a day. I was sitting in a Starbucks today in a very touristy area of Edinburgh. I asked the barista “ how are you?” and she said she was glad it was Friday that working all week you are tired by Friday. 

I sat there thinking how all of us tourists must look to people like this. We look weary. Tourists hit the ground running and wear themselves out. Always afraid they won’t see everything. She probably gets tired of us and all of our various cultural quirks.

I sat there listening to a two American tourists talking. The young women recounted her other travels. Sounds like she had travelled lots as a kid. Probably comes from a family with extra money to spend.

It struck me how privileged we Americans are. How privileged I am. How many people can do what I’m doing? Very few. They don’t have the income. They have obligations. 

In the last few years I have wanted to leave the United States. I just couldn’t stand what it had become. All the violence, the political crap, the racism. I’d had enough. 

It’s interesting to see cultures where violence is not overwhelming. There is violence here. There is knife crime. One thing that isn’t here is the pervasive gun culture, the mass shootings, the everyday violence. 

Perhaps I am naive but people don’t seem to fear each other here like they do in the United States. They don’t hate each other.Things seem normal here. They don’t feel normal in the United States.

Edinburghs underground city

 Scotland is, and looks, so old. The buildings here have been left to age and look brown and black which makes them look even older. Maybe it’s the climate, lots of rain. Could be the effects of being on the coast. 

All of it make Scotland feel like you are going back in time. It’s weirdly eerie. I keep wondering what it must be like in winter with mist and fog. 

It feels like a Harry Potter movie here. The building, the old churches. Streets have alleys called closes. They have names like Mary Kings close or the Bishops close. At the end of them are usually houses. They were  usually named after a notable resident.

They were built for security against attack and had gates at the entry. They also allowed for high density housing in the old days. 

There is one that is really interesting. Mary Kings close. Mary was a merchant who lived in the close. The thing is it is this close is underground.

 It lay abandoned for many’s years until two brothers dug it out and now tours are offered. 

In 1644 the plague hit Scotland. Edinburgh’s narrow closes and overcrowded housing was a breeding ground for the disease. Marys close was quarantined. People were taken care of there and given food and water. Many died there. It was abandoned in

It lay crumbing and decaying until it was closed off and things were built on top of it. People still knew about it and managed to get into part of it. 

A man claimed he saw a ghost there. It was a little girl whose family abandoned her and she was looking for a lost doll. He brought a doll down there and it remains there to this day. 

It is known to be haunted and ghosts of people who live there roam the halls.

Beautiful Scotland

 

Bob Dylan on the train to Edinburgh

 Trains are both fun and not fun.. When things go wrong, sudden changes not so fun. We have (by the skin of our teeth) managed to avoid rail strikes. 

We have taken 3 longer train rides so far:  London to Cardiff, Cardiff to Manchester, Manchester to Edinburgh.  

In London you didn’t know the platform number till about 5 minutes before it was scheduled to go. So there was a mad dash for the train like someone was giving away free ice cream. There are no seat assignments so it’s a free for all . 

So Cardiff to Manchester, there is a last minute change of platform. Of course it’s up a staircase, so bag drag. The train is 30 minutes late. Then 4 stops from Manchester there is an announcement that because of a problem with the train, we have to get off at next station and get on another train. 

Manchester to London train was cancelled. Got new tickets for train leaving about two hours later. Of course train change but no problem. Then at some point they announce only four of the eight cars are going on from the next stop. Everybody else had to move up to the cars moving on. Fortunately we were already in car moving forward so no move.

This is where the trip gets interesting. An old guy with a leather  hat comes into the car and finds a seat across from a young couple. He proceeds to tell them his entire life story for the rest of the trip.

He was a musician in a rock group most of his life playing the guitar. They played everywhere around England and had lots of stories of what they got up to. They never really made much money. He has six kids, 9 grandchildren. He is on his way to watch one of his daughters play in a nightclub in Edinburgh. 

After all of that the conversation turns to football (soccer) of course. He is from Brighton (which he hates). He proceeds to talk trash about the womens hometown club Liverpool and the guys hometown club Newcastle.  They talk about Manchester United. He thinks they are overrated and old coach Sir Alex Ferguson (who is revered) was full of himself.

So we’re almost to Edinburgh and they come around to pick up trash and this guy has can after can of beer to throw away. The guy with the trash was amazed. This guy was blotto.

We saw him later on the platform and he had another beer in his hand.  By the way, you can buy booze on the train.

Manchester Temple bar is in the toilet

 Manchester is the greatest place! It is down to earth, funky weird. It would take a long time to explore it all. 

Here’s a unique part of the city. It’s called the Temple bar. It is an underground bar (literally). It looks like you are going down into the subway but it’s a bar. The thing is this was a Victorian toilet for 100 years! 

It’s very popular, especially with musicians. It’s very small and intimate “encouraging you to make friends and talk to people near you”. Two dozen people can fit in here and that’s pushing it. It supposed to have the best jukebox in the city, many songs from popular local bands.  According to local reviews “it’s not crap”. Bada bing.

There is a unisex toilet. They say you don’t have bring your phone in there because the walls are covered in graffiti to keep you entertained. Only in Manchester.

Mens hair is fading in Manchester

 All young men here seem to have the same haircut. It’s kind of like the are in a cult or something. It’s called a fade. It consists of shaved hair on the sides and longer hair on top. 

So some men have straight hair that is fairly long that that use gel or something to have combed back. It stays like that! That amazes me. My very short hair is fine and thick. I lays flat. I always try to give myself sort of a ultra hipster tousled look on top. (!) It never works no matter what I try. It goes flat. Maybe superglue would work.

There are so many barber shops here. It seems like more than hair salons. Maybe they are just more noticeable, I don’t know. I guess mens hair upkeep is very important.

When we walk to the tram station every day, we pass a very small barber shop. It’s open 7 days a week. There is one guy. He’s there everyday. I guess he never takes a day off. Busy chap.

The world of hair is a very profitable one. From men and their fades,etc., to women and their braids, haircuts, highlights, baylages (really have no idea what that is but sounds good so I threw it in), lots of money is being made.

Las Vegas in Manchester England

 I found a place that could be found in Las Vegas. It is called the Trafford palazzo. It is a huge shopping center made up to look like a Roman palazzo. 

I’ve seen pictures of the Venetian in Las Vegas which looks a lot fancier but it’s kind of a similar effect without the canal. I’ve never actually been to Las Vegas.

Other than the theme of a palazzo it’s a regular mega mall. There is part of it in the food that is made to look like bourbon street in New Orleans. The mall has everything you would ever want.

Other than that we went back to the center to people watch at a table outside Starbucks. We did the same thing the previous Saturday and it was fun. So many different kinds of people going by. There are a couple of popular hipster bars down the block so it's busy. 

Groups of people come young women out looking for young men and vice versa. Couples all dressed up. A few rich people. A Lamborghini went by. It fun to see how people dress. Boring ordinary a running dress to punk to designer, you see everything. There was a hen (bachelorette) party of about 40 across the street.

Observing people is probably one of the most interesting part of this trip.

Manchester’s eerie library

 Manchester is one of those places that you would need to spend a long time to discover it all. There are lots of things to see in the center but also in the neighborhoods along the canals and rivers.  Two weeks is too little time.

I went to the John Ryland library today, probably the coolest place I’ve seen yet. It was a woman’s tribute to her husband opened in 1900. 

It is an amazing place that looks like an ancient church. It has these reading rooms that stretch the length of the building all in a row down both sides. Inside each rooms are all these old books behind glass dating back hundreds of years. The oldest one I found was from 1415.

No one can take any books out. It is a place to store a vast collection. Once in a while a researcher will request to see a book and it is brought out, but rarely. 

It is kind of an eerie place that is dimly lit. Feels like there could be ghosts. 

View from Manchester Deansgate tower

 Lots of people out today. Tram was full with people standing. 

Went down to central Manchester. The tram’s slowness and many stops let’s you see different areas. Manchester is a city of rivers. They meander through the city. A lot of neighborhoods are named so and so key. 

In the 2000’s the city decided to develop an isolated area with nothing on it. They decided it was a place that skyscrapers could be built. It was named Deansgate Square.

Four very tall residential buildings were put up. They range from 460 to 659 ft tall. The tallest building has 62 floors. That is the tallest building in Manchester. Imagine living on the 62nd floor!

Here is a picture of the towers and a view of Manchester from the tallest one. Obviously view is not my picture.

Manchester is hip to this slow traveller

 It's a new day. Here we are in Manchester.  Or “Mani” as the locals call it. The city itself has a population of 535,000 but in greater Manchester (suburbs and all) has 2.7 million. It's the 2nd biggest metro area in England. We're in northwest England now. Accents are thicker.

Manchester has two rivers that run through it so lots of scenic spots along it with shops and places to live. After Cardiff this feels really big.  Very sophisticated.

We sat outside a Starbucks today and people watched.  A wide variety of people went by.  Everything from bachelorette (or hen parties as they are called here) parties to a marriage party led by the bride to hip young women in the latest fashion. Add some good looking young men and you got the picture.(I’m not dead yet)

Manchester is a mix of old and new. Very old intricately designed building to 40-50 story modern skyscrapers. It’s sort of like a less crowded, less harried London. I love it so far. 

I’m even enjoying the very slow trams that are actually kind of relaxing and let you see the scenery. 

So a good start to a new and exciting place!

Train travel in UK is not fun

 Man I'm tired. These travel days take a lot out of you. 

Left at 8:30 am so we could get something to eat before the train. Long ways from the air bnb to station. At least it seemed long with a suitcase and a backpack. 

We had no idea how Cardiffs train station worked. Yes we had come in there but we just left right away. In order to get out you had to scan your train ticket. So we knew we had to scan the ticket going in. Turns out the station is sort of like a subway only it's outside. It's has platforms, that's it. 

We went to the right platform and there were lots of people . Uh oh another mad dash like in London? Turns out they were going on different trains. We got there too early. So it's 5 minutes before our train is due and announcement is made : change of platform! Of course it was up another staircase. 

Then train is delayed 30 minutes. OK it’s all good, we`re on the train. Everything is copacetic. The Wales countryside is absolutely beautiful. Lots of sheep. Cows.

About four stops from Manchester, they announce everybody has to get off at the next stop because this train ain't going any farther. We have to get on a new train! So on to the new train, different platform.

Finally at Manchester. Time to find train to air bnb to Eccles. Well we decided to take the "metrolink". Turns out it's a light rail situation. Great. Get on. Proceed to move through downtown at literally 5 mph. It seems to stop every block. As time goes on it seems to be going 2 mph. This was the pace to Eccles. It was bizarre and funny.  It really wasn't funny. We were tired. So five hours later (ha more like 40 minutes) We finally get to Eccles. 

We thought we would be efficient so we bought a week card for the light rail at the station. Cost: $30. Found out the actual train is 10 minutes to Eccles. However weekly cost: $60 for 1 week per person. Can somebody tell me why the UK transportation system is so darn expensive?!! 

Goodby beautiful Cardiff from this slow traveller

 So goodbye to Cardiff. A cool city with so much more potential. 

I think Cardiff will become even better than it is now. There is a separation between the beautiful bay and the center.  If they can somehow make it easier to get down there this city will explode. 

You can take a bus to the bay but we chose to walk. It’s about 40 minutes and you walk through a not so nice area.  The bus takes 30 minutes. It’s the regular city bus and not a tourist shuttle or anything.

The bay front has some development but has so much more potential. I can see hotels and condos in its future. Lots more restaurants. More use of the water with boating. There is only one boat that goes around the bay. There is a brand new arts building for theatre, music, dance that is really cool. The Welsh parliament is down there.

In the 1980s the bay entrance was restructured so there would be more of a consistent level of water and the entrance wasn’t all sand during low tide. 

If you walk around central Cardiff and take it at face value you won’t be impressed. The fun is inside the buildings and arcades. They hides lots of independents shops, markets and restaurants. 

Cardiff isn’t fancy but the River Taff and the gorgeous park along it on the castle grounds make it beautiful along the gorgeous bay.

Cardiff Wales medieval history slow travel

 You really have to dig for interesting nuggets. Like today seeing the remnant of the town wall in Cardiff that was built for defense purposes in 1100. 

I like to look up what are the oldest places. This came up. So I went to find it. I looked and looked It was across from Cardiff castle by Pizza Hut. I just happened to look in the alley behind Pizza Hut and there it was! Looking at it you would never guess it’s history. 

It was part of a 1.2 mile defensive built around the city. It was 8 ft high and 10 foot thick. There was nothing identifying it as this significant piece of history. Just knowing that was built 1100 years ago and seeing it is so cool. 

There are also remnants of a 3rd century Roman wall in the Cardiff castle walls. It is outlined in red on the photo. Unbelievable.

Cardiff fascination’ history to this slow traveller

I never planned to go to Wales thinking Wales? Boring. It’s anything but…

Loving history like I do, it’s an interesting place. To me, anyway. This was one of the big coal capitols of the world. At its height it moved 11 million tons through Cardiff harbor a year. I cant even imagine what that must have looked like with train car after train car being loaded onto ships. Ships coming in from all over. The town was built on it. 

It made a lot of people very rich. During the Victorian era. I’m sure Cardiff was a mix of the wealthy and the working class who worked the docks. People from around the world who crewed the shipped coming into the harbor settled here, representing many countries including Somalia, Yemen and Greece. The area around the docks became a multiracial community. 

After World War 2 coal production almost completely ceased leaving Cardiff in economic decline. Refugees came from war torn countries in the 1970-80s.

The bay was redeveloped in the 1990s into a place for entertainment and water activities. The Welsh parliament is there. There is a large arts center there.

Nowadays Cardiff relies on finance, tech, retail and tourism. Cardiff gets 21 millions tourists a year! 

Cardiff Bay in 1890s and today.

Cardiff clear, Cardiff cloudy,etc.

 Cardiff is such a breath of fresh air. It is a much smaller city than London. It's under 500,000. The air is fresh. Everything is green. It's not congested. It's not hustle bustle. We don't have to use the train here. It's walkable or you can take the bus for really cheap. 

When we got here it was cloudy. We lucked into finding the bus to where we're staying. Then we went past it and had to walk back. No big deal. Our airbnb is very nice in a really cool neighborhood called Pontcanna. It has huge stone houses.

Todays weather has been interesting. Went down to central Cardiff for groceries. Beautiful and sunny.  On way back downpour. Took the bus partway. Get home sun comes out. Then thunderstorm. Then sunny again. Now thunderstorm. Really hard rain and hail. Thought the picture with galoshes appropriate.

When I looked at the forecast for the week we are here, I was worried. Rain everyday. On closer examination it looks like what happened today happens everyday.

Cant wait to explore Cardiff!

Snooze you lose slow travel

 Today we leave London and go to Wales.

The hardest part of this trip will be the traveling. Today we left the air bnb 3 hours early with idea of stopping at McDonalds (I know yuck) to get at least coffee. 

From there we just went to Paddington station. So we got there at maybe 10:45am. Our train is at 12:17. We had no idea how this was going to work so went way early. 

Our train wasn’t even on the board when we got there. Sat outside station for a while. Went back in and it was on the board, no platform. So how does this work?

M went up to info desk. They told him 15 minutes before leaving time, platform number will appear. Then you have 15 minutes get yourself on train and in a seat. 

So next it says the train is delayed. Uh oh. Oh did I say everybody waiting  or sitting in front the big electronic sign. Most people have to stand. It’s very bizarre that you have to stand there waiting the platform letter to appear.

So within 5 minutes the letter appears. All these people start moving toward where the platform is. It’s like a rush to get to the train.

When I ordered the tickets, you could choose a seat so I did. I think that was baloney. Everyone sat where they wanted. Did they rush to get window seats? Or a four seat table place? We’re they afraid they wouldn’t make the train?

I think it’s that people have been trained you better get your butt in the seat, no dawdling. This train has a schedule to keep. Snooze you lose.

An oasis in London

 I have talked about nooks and crannies and mews and alleyways. Hidden treasures. Yesterday I set out to find one: Neal’s Yard. It is a very small alley with shops and restaurants. It’s cute but I didn’t think it was anything special.

So M was getting his hair cut and I would meet him in a couple hours. So after Neal’s Yard, I  decided to just wonder around the area and I wandered into a hidden place that was really cool.

It was called Phoenix park. It is a small community garden with trees and flowers and benches. There are winding path. It is a little oasis in a busy city. 

The park was started by community members who still take care of it. There is a small building where they hold events. 

I sat there for a while just enjoying the greenery and listened to a church bell toll. There were pretty flowers and the usual pigeons walking around. London has thousands of pigeons and they are everywhere.

If was so relaxing. 

Met up with M and we decided to go to Borough market to have a really good street taco there. They were closing! We didnt get one one.

I went here on my own the first time and loved the taco. We went back the day after the tube strike last week and the whole market was closed. So this was a second try!  

I guess I wasn’t meant to have another one…too bad. Best food I’ve had here. Goodbye Taco Parde.